Unfortunately the child who had been diagnosed with TB and HIV died today. All the children, cooks and housemother were sad and somber for the rest of the day. The deceased's sister (age 13) returned with the body to their grandparents home where the body will be on display until the funeral. All I know is traditional Khmer rites are being planned, but as of this point, I don't know what these are besides what I read on the internet.
What was surprising was that no one touched this child while she was sobbing. I hoped it wasn't too culturally inappropriate, but I did hold her until the one staff mother took her from me and placed an arm around her shoulders.
This is so very sad and it has been a week of sadness with this on top of two other deaths in my social realm. Maybe the touch was more for me than for her.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Updates -- Peaceful Children's Home II
As we cease being strangers we are becoming less wary and begin exhibiting our true selves. This familiarity has led to increased comfort and some testing behaviors to my somewhat idiosyncratic, and at times situational boundaries. Some days I am exuberantly happy to have children hang on me, strolling togrther, singing and enjoying each other. Some days, not so much. When it is 105 degrees F. and I have had a bad meal and feel compelled to have a privy nearby, I can become cranky, and so can the children.
We continue having drawing studio two hours daily on weekdays and it continues to be quite popular. I also have learned to play several hand games and I becoming adept at rock jacks. In rock jacks one uses pebbles for both the jacks and the ball, similar to no bounce jacks, a game I couldn’t manage as a youngster. As the rocks are variable sizes and all different shapes, my only advantage is my larger hands, but certainly not my eye-hand coordination. They are beating the snot out of me even when they are giving me advantage to keep me playing. 
I continue to have challenges learning Khmer, though I can now say no, stop, rice, 2:00 and thank-you. I was demotivated in terms of learning the alphabet when I learned it took children over three years to learn it and with over 30 letters and 40 vowels and my aging brain, not a chance for me. I have decided to use a transliterated/aural approach from now on.
The home runs on a shoestring and there have been some emergencies with the children recently which point out the challenges. One of the teens was having breathing problems and was hospitalized. She was soon diagnosed with TB and later with HIV (both of her parents died of this scourge). I don’t know whether TB is considered an opportunistic infection in this country and therefore I am unsure whether she would be considered to have an AIDS diagnosis.
Later last week a boy fell out of a tree while gathering fruit and lost consciousness for a little while. (While climbing trees is not allowed, the kids are hungry and don’t get much fruit or other sweets, making climbing an attractive nuisance.) Nonetheless, he fell on Friday afternoon, was put to bed and started vomiting (a sign of a concussion). He was not taken to the clinic until the vomiting became uncontrollable. The home just does not have ready petty cash and needs permission from the executive director to spend unbudgeted funds. He was unavailable. It was not until the general manager agreed to pay for the treatment that the child was seen the next day. The clinic recommended he stay for overnight observation, but there was no budget for that, so the child was returned to the home. I hope he is all right and I have not heard anything more about the situation.
As I compose this blog, children are banging on the library’s steel doors pleading for art studio to start. When they have been quiet for ten minutes, I think I will open it, but if not, they will have to wait until 2, or… ayh muon bpi, som.
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
The Charity Fair - Peaceful Children's Home I
March 26 and 27th
Once every year the Khmer foundation sponsors a charity fair. The purpose of this fair is to highlight the talents of the children in traditional music, dance, and sports and to thank all those who supporters, friends, board members. Additionally it is a time for alumni to gather and to hopefully raise a bit of cash.
It was to my delight that the fair was postponed to March this year and I was able to participate in this gala event. The setting was reminiscent of a medieval carnival, albeit with large loudspeakers spewing ear deafening decibles. There was a large, colorful tent, festooned in streamers, with seating for one hundred guests. In the front was a sizable stage for performances. The soccer field sprouted another gargantuan tent. Both tents contained observation stands with VIP seating in front consisting of beautifully carved hardwood sofas and chairs. Much to Rich and my chagrin we were considered VIPs, too, and placed prominently in front of the activities.
On Monday we returned to Battambang, a bit worn out, but full of wonderful foods, experiences, and memorable friendships. For more pics, click here.
Once every year the Khmer foundation sponsors a charity fair. The purpose of this fair is to highlight the talents of the children in traditional music, dance, and sports and to thank all those who supporters, friends, board members. Additionally it is a time for alumni to gather and to hopefully raise a bit of cash.
It was to my delight that the fair was postponed to March this year and I was able to participate in this gala event. The setting was reminiscent of a medieval carnival, albeit with large loudspeakers spewing ear deafening decibles. There was a large, colorful tent, festooned in streamers, with seating for one hundred guests. In the front was a sizable stage for performances. The soccer field sprouted another gargantuan tent. Both tents contained observation stands with VIP seating in front consisting of beautifully carved hardwood sofas and chairs. Much to Rich and my chagrin we were considered VIPs, too, and placed prominently in front of the activities.
One must feed such a large gathering, so booths were constructed where the cooking staff along with students prepared traditional foods such as grilled meats, curries, sliced fruits, soups, sandwiches on really baguettes, and amok fish, and as always plenty of rice to fill you up.
A system of chits provided a cashless economy to purchase foods, drink and the various games of chance. One also could purchase handmade crafts from women’s cooperatives and I purchased a scarf and a nice piece of fabric to use as a sarong.
A system of chits provided a cashless economy to purchase foods, drink and the various games of chance. One also could purchase handmade crafts from women’s cooperatives and I purchased a scarf and a nice piece of fabric to use as a sarong.
The weekend was action packed and as part of the esteemed staff, it was quite grueling. We were picked up from our hotel in Phnom Penh at 6:30 for a treacherous drive to home 1. As I have related before, Phnom Penh drivers are fearless and follow the assumed rule, if you are bigger you have the right of way. (Our driver took daring to a higher art form, passing on two lane curves and on hills, blasting the horn at regular intervals, and playing chicken with trucks and the ubiquitous motorcycle. I was fortunate enough to have a seatbelt but also the front passenger position.) But I digress; we stayed at the home until 10:00 on Saturday night and were taken home early, 8 pm on Sunday. Both days consisted of multiple soccer games, traditional dance performances in costume which were choreographed by a gnome like, elderly woman, who was a former dance teacher for the royal family. There were multiple meals, gatherings to chat with those who spoke English, and consulting with the inner circle for discussion and planning.
On Sunday, an archeology professor educated in the U.S. escorted us on visits to the local Wat (Buddhist temple) built on a prehistoric mound, and to some other mounds in the area where artifacts were surfacing from the soils due to animal digging and erosion.
On Sunday, an archeology professor educated in the U.S. escorted us on visits to the local Wat (Buddhist temple) built on a prehistoric mound, and to some other mounds in the area where artifacts were surfacing from the soils due to animal digging and erosion.
On Monday we returned to Battambang, a bit worn out, but full of wonderful foods, experiences, and memorable friendships. For more pics, click here.
Sightseeing in Battambang province - March 19th
On Thursday morning, upon returning from breakfast, a tuk tuk driver propositioned us for a tour of Battambang province’s sights and wonders. He made us an offer we couldn’t refuse of a whole day of sightseeing for $15.00. Upon informing him of our work schedule, we scheduled a weekend day for the trip.
Upon leaving the vineyard we travelled a few miles further to a Wat (Buddhist temple) where fruit bats were roosting in the trees. These mammals are huge and at first I thought they were flying squirrels. A local man, who the driver described a crazy but may have been developmentally delayed, beat the trees to roust the bats, and later indicated he wanted funds for his services disturbing the resting bats. We watched the bats for a bit and then left for another wonder of the province.
About five minutes later we arrived at Phnom Banan, an Ankorian wonder built on top of a high hill (BTW – Phnom means hill). One could only imagine the majesty of the structure before the Khmer Rouge, who wanted to destroy any sign of Buddhism, bombed it. The remains themselves were spectacular. In order to visit them, we needed to walk up a very steep staircase of close to 800 very tall steps. I was unwillingly aided in my ascent by a small, very determined woman, who though I protested, kept waving fans to cool me and massaged my legs when I stopped. I found it quite humiliating at first, but later just accepted and let her continue her ministrations. She chose to show us around the ruins, and took several nice photos of us. She asked for a dollar for her work and we gave her two.
We continued on furled dirt roads, passing scattered inhabitations until we finally reached our lunch spot and embarking spot to visit Phnom Sampu. This location is one where the brutality of the Khmer Rouge becomes more visceral. The Khmer Rouge used the Wat on Sampu as a jail where they incarcerated the Cambodian citizens and later killed them by throwing them over a cliff into a cave. We later walked down to the cave where there were collections of human bones and skulls in glass cabinets and a monk who was saying prayers. I witnessed the results of this brutality and said kaddish for those who died.
Somberly we left the caves and slowly returned to Battambang for the evening. The tour was quite compelling and while I was saddened by the horrid history, I felt hearted by the resilience of the people of this country. For more pictures, click here.
Early Saturday morning we met “John”, his own moniker, and began a day of activities. First we met the Bamboo train. The “train” is comprised of a metal 3’x6’ metal frame covered in bamboo slats and set atop two axels attached to wheels and spanning the railroad track. Affixed to the platform is a small two-stroke motor attached to the rear axle with a rubber belt. To complete the set up a stick is affixed used as an accelerator and a crude brake. Rich and I, along with our driver took a 7 km jaunt down the tracks. Though this conveyance is now primarily for tourists, it was a once used for transporting of goods. This was necessary due to the war when the Khmer Rouge destroyed the train system as it was considered a modern abhorrence to be rid of.
Following an hour on the train, including fifteen minutes of waiting for our return, we got back on the tuk tuk and headed across the Sampor river to view traditional houses, and then to visit a vineyard, the only one growing wine grapes in Cambodia. We walked around the estate, and tasted some of the grapes. As it was a very hot day, I did not indulge in tasting because we were off to hiking and the idea of exerting myself in the heat while tanked up on wine was a bit off-putting.
Upon leaving the vineyard we travelled a few miles further to a Wat (Buddhist temple) where fruit bats were roosting in the trees. These mammals are huge and at first I thought they were flying squirrels. A local man, who the driver described a crazy but may have been developmentally delayed, beat the trees to roust the bats, and later indicated he wanted funds for his services disturbing the resting bats. We watched the bats for a bit and then left for another wonder of the province.
About five minutes later we arrived at Phnom Banan, an Ankorian wonder built on top of a high hill (BTW – Phnom means hill). One could only imagine the majesty of the structure before the Khmer Rouge, who wanted to destroy any sign of Buddhism, bombed it. The remains themselves were spectacular. In order to visit them, we needed to walk up a very steep staircase of close to 800 very tall steps. I was unwillingly aided in my ascent by a small, very determined woman, who though I protested, kept waving fans to cool me and massaged my legs when I stopped. I found it quite humiliating at first, but later just accepted and let her continue her ministrations. She chose to show us around the ruins, and took several nice photos of us. She asked for a dollar for her work and we gave her two.
We continued on furled dirt roads, passing scattered inhabitations until we finally reached our lunch spot and embarking spot to visit Phnom Sampu. This location is one where the brutality of the Khmer Rouge becomes more visceral. The Khmer Rouge used the Wat on Sampu as a jail where they incarcerated the Cambodian citizens and later killed them by throwing them over a cliff into a cave. We later walked down to the cave where there were collections of human bones and skulls in glass cabinets and a monk who was saying prayers. I witnessed the results of this brutality and said kaddish for those who died.
Somberly we left the caves and slowly returned to Battambang for the evening. The tour was quite compelling and while I was saddened by the horrid history, I felt hearted by the resilience of the people of this country. For more pictures, click here.
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