Unfortunately the child who had been diagnosed with TB and HIV died today. All the children, cooks and housemother were sad and somber for the rest of the day. The deceased's sister (age 13) returned with the body to their grandparents home where the body will be on display until the funeral. All I know is traditional Khmer rites are being planned, but as of this point, I don't know what these are besides what I read on the internet.
What was surprising was that no one touched this child while she was sobbing. I hoped it wasn't too culturally inappropriate, but I did hold her until the one staff mother took her from me and placed an arm around her shoulders.
This is so very sad and it has been a week of sadness with this on top of two other deaths in my social realm. Maybe the touch was more for me than for her.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Updates -- Peaceful Children's Home II
As we cease being strangers we are becoming less wary and begin exhibiting our true selves. This familiarity has led to increased comfort and some testing behaviors to my somewhat idiosyncratic, and at times situational boundaries. Some days I am exuberantly happy to have children hang on me, strolling togrther, singing and enjoying each other. Some days, not so much. When it is 105 degrees F. and I have had a bad meal and feel compelled to have a privy nearby, I can become cranky, and so can the children.
We continue having drawing studio two hours daily on weekdays and it continues to be quite popular. I also have learned to play several hand games and I becoming adept at rock jacks. In rock jacks one uses pebbles for both the jacks and the ball, similar to no bounce jacks, a game I couldn’t manage as a youngster. As the rocks are variable sizes and all different shapes, my only advantage is my larger hands, but certainly not my eye-hand coordination. They are beating the snot out of me even when they are giving me advantage to keep me playing. 
I continue to have challenges learning Khmer, though I can now say no, stop, rice, 2:00 and thank-you. I was demotivated in terms of learning the alphabet when I learned it took children over three years to learn it and with over 30 letters and 40 vowels and my aging brain, not a chance for me. I have decided to use a transliterated/aural approach from now on.
The home runs on a shoestring and there have been some emergencies with the children recently which point out the challenges. One of the teens was having breathing problems and was hospitalized. She was soon diagnosed with TB and later with HIV (both of her parents died of this scourge). I don’t know whether TB is considered an opportunistic infection in this country and therefore I am unsure whether she would be considered to have an AIDS diagnosis.
Later last week a boy fell out of a tree while gathering fruit and lost consciousness for a little while. (While climbing trees is not allowed, the kids are hungry and don’t get much fruit or other sweets, making climbing an attractive nuisance.) Nonetheless, he fell on Friday afternoon, was put to bed and started vomiting (a sign of a concussion). He was not taken to the clinic until the vomiting became uncontrollable. The home just does not have ready petty cash and needs permission from the executive director to spend unbudgeted funds. He was unavailable. It was not until the general manager agreed to pay for the treatment that the child was seen the next day. The clinic recommended he stay for overnight observation, but there was no budget for that, so the child was returned to the home. I hope he is all right and I have not heard anything more about the situation.
As I compose this blog, children are banging on the library’s steel doors pleading for art studio to start. When they have been quiet for ten minutes, I think I will open it, but if not, they will have to wait until 2, or… ayh muon bpi, som.
Tuesday, April 5, 2011
The Charity Fair - Peaceful Children's Home I
March 26 and 27th
Once every year the Khmer foundation sponsors a charity fair. The purpose of this fair is to highlight the talents of the children in traditional music, dance, and sports and to thank all those who supporters, friends, board members. Additionally it is a time for alumni to gather and to hopefully raise a bit of cash.
It was to my delight that the fair was postponed to March this year and I was able to participate in this gala event. The setting was reminiscent of a medieval carnival, albeit with large loudspeakers spewing ear deafening decibles. There was a large, colorful tent, festooned in streamers, with seating for one hundred guests. In the front was a sizable stage for performances. The soccer field sprouted another gargantuan tent. Both tents contained observation stands with VIP seating in front consisting of beautifully carved hardwood sofas and chairs. Much to Rich and my chagrin we were considered VIPs, too, and placed prominently in front of the activities.
On Monday we returned to Battambang, a bit worn out, but full of wonderful foods, experiences, and memorable friendships. For more pics, click here.
Once every year the Khmer foundation sponsors a charity fair. The purpose of this fair is to highlight the talents of the children in traditional music, dance, and sports and to thank all those who supporters, friends, board members. Additionally it is a time for alumni to gather and to hopefully raise a bit of cash.
It was to my delight that the fair was postponed to March this year and I was able to participate in this gala event. The setting was reminiscent of a medieval carnival, albeit with large loudspeakers spewing ear deafening decibles. There was a large, colorful tent, festooned in streamers, with seating for one hundred guests. In the front was a sizable stage for performances. The soccer field sprouted another gargantuan tent. Both tents contained observation stands with VIP seating in front consisting of beautifully carved hardwood sofas and chairs. Much to Rich and my chagrin we were considered VIPs, too, and placed prominently in front of the activities.
One must feed such a large gathering, so booths were constructed where the cooking staff along with students prepared traditional foods such as grilled meats, curries, sliced fruits, soups, sandwiches on really baguettes, and amok fish, and as always plenty of rice to fill you up.
A system of chits provided a cashless economy to purchase foods, drink and the various games of chance. One also could purchase handmade crafts from women’s cooperatives and I purchased a scarf and a nice piece of fabric to use as a sarong.
A system of chits provided a cashless economy to purchase foods, drink and the various games of chance. One also could purchase handmade crafts from women’s cooperatives and I purchased a scarf and a nice piece of fabric to use as a sarong.
The weekend was action packed and as part of the esteemed staff, it was quite grueling. We were picked up from our hotel in Phnom Penh at 6:30 for a treacherous drive to home 1. As I have related before, Phnom Penh drivers are fearless and follow the assumed rule, if you are bigger you have the right of way. (Our driver took daring to a higher art form, passing on two lane curves and on hills, blasting the horn at regular intervals, and playing chicken with trucks and the ubiquitous motorcycle. I was fortunate enough to have a seatbelt but also the front passenger position.) But I digress; we stayed at the home until 10:00 on Saturday night and were taken home early, 8 pm on Sunday. Both days consisted of multiple soccer games, traditional dance performances in costume which were choreographed by a gnome like, elderly woman, who was a former dance teacher for the royal family. There were multiple meals, gatherings to chat with those who spoke English, and consulting with the inner circle for discussion and planning.
On Sunday, an archeology professor educated in the U.S. escorted us on visits to the local Wat (Buddhist temple) built on a prehistoric mound, and to some other mounds in the area where artifacts were surfacing from the soils due to animal digging and erosion.
On Sunday, an archeology professor educated in the U.S. escorted us on visits to the local Wat (Buddhist temple) built on a prehistoric mound, and to some other mounds in the area where artifacts were surfacing from the soils due to animal digging and erosion.
On Monday we returned to Battambang, a bit worn out, but full of wonderful foods, experiences, and memorable friendships. For more pics, click here.
Sightseeing in Battambang province - March 19th
On Thursday morning, upon returning from breakfast, a tuk tuk driver propositioned us for a tour of Battambang province’s sights and wonders. He made us an offer we couldn’t refuse of a whole day of sightseeing for $15.00. Upon informing him of our work schedule, we scheduled a weekend day for the trip.
Upon leaving the vineyard we travelled a few miles further to a Wat (Buddhist temple) where fruit bats were roosting in the trees. These mammals are huge and at first I thought they were flying squirrels. A local man, who the driver described a crazy but may have been developmentally delayed, beat the trees to roust the bats, and later indicated he wanted funds for his services disturbing the resting bats. We watched the bats for a bit and then left for another wonder of the province.
About five minutes later we arrived at Phnom Banan, an Ankorian wonder built on top of a high hill (BTW – Phnom means hill). One could only imagine the majesty of the structure before the Khmer Rouge, who wanted to destroy any sign of Buddhism, bombed it. The remains themselves were spectacular. In order to visit them, we needed to walk up a very steep staircase of close to 800 very tall steps. I was unwillingly aided in my ascent by a small, very determined woman, who though I protested, kept waving fans to cool me and massaged my legs when I stopped. I found it quite humiliating at first, but later just accepted and let her continue her ministrations. She chose to show us around the ruins, and took several nice photos of us. She asked for a dollar for her work and we gave her two.
We continued on furled dirt roads, passing scattered inhabitations until we finally reached our lunch spot and embarking spot to visit Phnom Sampu. This location is one where the brutality of the Khmer Rouge becomes more visceral. The Khmer Rouge used the Wat on Sampu as a jail where they incarcerated the Cambodian citizens and later killed them by throwing them over a cliff into a cave. We later walked down to the cave where there were collections of human bones and skulls in glass cabinets and a monk who was saying prayers. I witnessed the results of this brutality and said kaddish for those who died.
Somberly we left the caves and slowly returned to Battambang for the evening. The tour was quite compelling and while I was saddened by the horrid history, I felt hearted by the resilience of the people of this country. For more pictures, click here.
Early Saturday morning we met “John”, his own moniker, and began a day of activities. First we met the Bamboo train. The “train” is comprised of a metal 3’x6’ metal frame covered in bamboo slats and set atop two axels attached to wheels and spanning the railroad track. Affixed to the platform is a small two-stroke motor attached to the rear axle with a rubber belt. To complete the set up a stick is affixed used as an accelerator and a crude brake. Rich and I, along with our driver took a 7 km jaunt down the tracks. Though this conveyance is now primarily for tourists, it was a once used for transporting of goods. This was necessary due to the war when the Khmer Rouge destroyed the train system as it was considered a modern abhorrence to be rid of.
Following an hour on the train, including fifteen minutes of waiting for our return, we got back on the tuk tuk and headed across the Sampor river to view traditional houses, and then to visit a vineyard, the only one growing wine grapes in Cambodia. We walked around the estate, and tasted some of the grapes. As it was a very hot day, I did not indulge in tasting because we were off to hiking and the idea of exerting myself in the heat while tanked up on wine was a bit off-putting.
Upon leaving the vineyard we travelled a few miles further to a Wat (Buddhist temple) where fruit bats were roosting in the trees. These mammals are huge and at first I thought they were flying squirrels. A local man, who the driver described a crazy but may have been developmentally delayed, beat the trees to roust the bats, and later indicated he wanted funds for his services disturbing the resting bats. We watched the bats for a bit and then left for another wonder of the province.
About five minutes later we arrived at Phnom Banan, an Ankorian wonder built on top of a high hill (BTW – Phnom means hill). One could only imagine the majesty of the structure before the Khmer Rouge, who wanted to destroy any sign of Buddhism, bombed it. The remains themselves were spectacular. In order to visit them, we needed to walk up a very steep staircase of close to 800 very tall steps. I was unwillingly aided in my ascent by a small, very determined woman, who though I protested, kept waving fans to cool me and massaged my legs when I stopped. I found it quite humiliating at first, but later just accepted and let her continue her ministrations. She chose to show us around the ruins, and took several nice photos of us. She asked for a dollar for her work and we gave her two.
We continued on furled dirt roads, passing scattered inhabitations until we finally reached our lunch spot and embarking spot to visit Phnom Sampu. This location is one where the brutality of the Khmer Rouge becomes more visceral. The Khmer Rouge used the Wat on Sampu as a jail where they incarcerated the Cambodian citizens and later killed them by throwing them over a cliff into a cave. We later walked down to the cave where there were collections of human bones and skulls in glass cabinets and a monk who was saying prayers. I witnessed the results of this brutality and said kaddish for those who died.
Somberly we left the caves and slowly returned to Battambang for the evening. The tour was quite compelling and while I was saddened by the horrid history, I felt hearted by the resilience of the people of this country. For more pictures, click here.
Saturday, March 12, 2011
Battambang - Peaceful Children's Home #2
But moving on beyond creature comforts, we are really here to work at the Peaceful Children’s Home II (PCH). The home is about a 10-minute bike ride from our hotel and the city center, but is really quite rural, though it is on a blacktop. There is no electricity in the area and all power is provided by solar cells and only switched on for evening activities from 7 until 10. Water is pumped from a well.
The “campus” contains several buildings all connected with cement sidewalks which I hear are overtopped during the rainy season. There is an open air dining hall and kitchen where all meals are prepared over wood fires and served three times a day. There is a repurposed brick kiln, which on the ground floor has a large inside multi-purpose space, a medical treatment room for visiting physicians to use, a storage room, along with a modest library and a playroom. On the upper floor of the kiln are some bedrooms for older boys and for visitors, and a meditation room where Buddhist nuns instruct the children in “moral education”. Other buildings include four- two story dorms, barns, and a visitors dorm with classrooms on the ground floor.
The property also has chickens ducks, a pig, geese, and two fish ponds, and a vegetable garden. Throughout the campus are fruit trees; banana, jackfruit, mango, papaya and other fruits I do not recognize. With all these additional foods, the children are able to be fed on about twenty five cents a day per child.
It is amazing how well we are able to get along with the children without having a common language. At times it can be somewhat challenging, but the children are hungry for adult attention, and have become quite attached to my presence there. I feel as if I am a mother duck and the ducklings are following me wherever I go.
I have instituted an open drawing studio in the library for two hours everyday and this has provided me a wonderful opportunity to connect with the children, and to observe the themes in their artwork. My hope is to have some drawing prompts copied onto paper for the students to begin sharing their stories and experiences with me.
All in all both Rich and I are enjoying ourselves and love this assignment and the location in Battambang. Here are my current pics.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Phnom Penh Khmer Foundation
Five of us from AJWS arrived at the Fairyland guest house, our hotel in Phnom Penh, in the late afternoon on Friday February 18th. Though the name would not work in the US, there was nothing campy about the hotel. It was clean, with great wifi and excellent air conditioning. The hotel was centrally located, about 1/4 mile from downtown Phnom Penh, and close to several good street stalls, our favorite eating venues, so we were pleased and able to keep our food costs low, usually less than $5 a day for the two of us, if we were not having beers with dinner, or eating with our colleagues.
Rich and I spent the weekend exploring the city as my colleagues from AJWS, who were remaining in Phnom Penh, secured housing for the duration of the stay. We explored several markets in town, the downtown, the national museum and several temples during our five days in the city. The city is quite bustling with busy streets and no traffic signage except for a couple of lights. The rule of traffic seems to be "the biggest vehicle has the right of way". This unfortunately leaves pedestrians at the bottom of the hierarchy and so walkers need to beware. This traffic pattern combined with the sidewalks being used for motorcycle parking, forced all to walk in the streets. We were careful about staying aware to traffic coming from any direction, as vehicles did not necessarily keep to the right when turning or passing.
On Monday I went to the Khmer foundation, and I met the staff who was there, the financial manager, who was almost as new as I was having started two weeks before. Dararoth, the volunteer executive director, drove both of us to Home # 1, a 45 minute drive from Phnom Penh. The orphanage itself is located on a 4 hectare property which is located about 30 away by paved roads, and then down a rutted dirt road(which I imagine is relatively impassable in the rainy season). The orphanage seems to share space with the founders’ farming concerns, and a solar energy group from Denmark.
Rich and I spent the weekend exploring the city as my colleagues from AJWS, who were remaining in Phnom Penh, secured housing for the duration of the stay. We explored several markets in town, the downtown, the national museum and several temples during our five days in the city. The city is quite bustling with busy streets and no traffic signage except for a couple of lights. The rule of traffic seems to be "the biggest vehicle has the right of way". This unfortunately leaves pedestrians at the bottom of the hierarchy and so walkers need to beware. This traffic pattern combined with the sidewalks being used for motorcycle parking, forced all to walk in the streets. We were careful about staying aware to traffic coming from any direction, as vehicles did not necessarily keep to the right when turning or passing.
On Monday I went to the Khmer foundation, and I met the staff who was there, the financial manager, who was almost as new as I was having started two weeks before. Dararoth, the volunteer executive director, drove both of us to Home # 1, a 45 minute drive from Phnom Penh. The orphanage itself is located on a 4 hectare property which is located about 30 away by paved roads, and then down a rutted dirt road(which I imagine is relatively impassable in the rainy season). The orphanage seems to share space with the founders’ farming concerns, and a solar energy group from Denmark.
The area of the orphanage consists of a kitchen with a covered, outdoor dining pavilion, a set of four non-attached toilets, four or five dorm buildings, and a central hall with two classrooms and a dance, performance space on the second floor. There is no electricity, outside of some solar power for lighting the yard in the evening, and there is no plumbing for the site.
The grounds are beautiful with ponds for fish, there is a chicken yard, scrawny cattle with protruding bones, chickens, ducks, and a host of flowering plants and trees. Most of the children were away at school while we were there, but those who went to afternoon school were around and were a bit bashful, and very polite.
The next day I went into the office to prepare my plan for the assignent and then we went to lunch together. The plan we developed is as follows: Assess admission criteria, develop behavioral expectation for children living at the orphanage, and develop operational definitions, and descriptions for the differing staff positions.
I was told that I should take the rest of the day to work at the hotel as Dararoth would not be at the office, and that we would not get together until Thursday when we would travel to Battambang to begin the placement at Home # 2 in Battambang.
AJWS orientation
The five days of orientation in Chiang Mai were chock-a block full with learning and self-exploration The days were filled with need to know information such as: safety planning, AJWS rules reviews, country specific information for volunteers in Cambodia and Thailand, values clarification exercises, Jewish texts around tikun olam, and introductions to the various agencies where we would be assigned.
The last two days of the orientation volunteers met with their agency representative/supervisors to develop work plan agreements, and learn about their placements more in depth. Unfortunately, the general manager of the Khmer foundations home was not able to get into Chiang Mai, as he was delayed in Bangkok, but fortunately the country liaison for Cambodia, Dararoth Ke, is also the volunteer executive director of the Khmer foundation and he an I worked together on making plans for my placement with the foundation. In the evenings we typically went out together for meals, strolls, etc. By Thursday night, we had developed surprisingly close ties, and were all somewhat saddened by the thoughts of leaving one another and going to our separate locations. The penultimate afternoon, we travelled as a group to a magnificent temple on a near mountain which houses the emerald Buddha.
It was a lovely excursion up a winding road into the cool of the mountain where we climbed an immense staircase with a railing made of ceramic mosaic tiles in the shape of two parallel dragons. It was stunning. The temple was massive, with several buildings, with amazing carvings and murals. It was an amazing ending to our adventure together.
On Friday morning we separated with five of the volunteers staying in Thailand working with Burmese ethnic refugees fleeing the tyranny in Myanmar. The other five of us were heading to Cambodia, three staying in Phnom Penh, one to the southern coast in Kampot, and me to Battambang after a few days stay in Phnom Penh.
Here are pictures from the week in Chiang Mai
The last two days of the orientation volunteers met with their agency representative/supervisors to develop work plan agreements, and learn about their placements more in depth. Unfortunately, the general manager of the Khmer foundations home was not able to get into Chiang Mai, as he was delayed in Bangkok, but fortunately the country liaison for Cambodia, Dararoth Ke, is also the volunteer executive director of the Khmer foundation and he an I worked together on making plans for my placement with the foundation. In the evenings we typically went out together for meals, strolls, etc. By Thursday night, we had developed surprisingly close ties, and were all somewhat saddened by the thoughts of leaving one another and going to our separate locations. The penultimate afternoon, we travelled as a group to a magnificent temple on a near mountain which houses the emerald Buddha.
It was a lovely excursion up a winding road into the cool of the mountain where we climbed an immense staircase with a railing made of ceramic mosaic tiles in the shape of two parallel dragons. It was stunning. The temple was massive, with several buildings, with amazing carvings and murals. It was an amazing ending to our adventure together.
On Friday morning we separated with five of the volunteers staying in Thailand working with Burmese ethnic refugees fleeing the tyranny in Myanmar. The other five of us were heading to Cambodia, three staying in Phnom Penh, one to the southern coast in Kampot, and me to Battambang after a few days stay in Phnom Penh.
Here are pictures from the week in Chiang Mai
Monday, February 14, 2011
More Pictures
These are shots from
Hue to Laos,
and
I did not post these earlier, but they are from Vientiane, Laos.
Hope you enjoy,
Hue to Laos,
and
I did not post these earlier, but they are from Vientiane, Laos.
Hope you enjoy,
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Travelling to Chiang Mai --- AJWS Begins
Since the last post we have continued to travel through Laos and finally moved into Thailand. Pics are here. We had a lovely few days in Luang Prabang before taking off on a 2 day river trip on the slow boat to the Thai border. The trip was lovely, allowing for beautiful views and relaxation for two long (9 hour) days, soaking up the scenes of the river. We saw small villages spattered on the hills with indigenous groups of ethnic Lao and Hmong residing atop the riverside hills. These seemed to be primarily fishing communities, though there also seemed to be small groups panning for minerals (gold and gems) at the water's edge.
After two days on the river, we crossed the Mekong and entered Thailand. This was a much easier crossing than we had experienced crossing from Vietnam to Laos and there were not too many surprises. We arrived in a small city in Thailand across from Huay Xai, Laos and eventually found a bus travelling to Chiang Mai. We were informed the trip would be about five hours, and seven hours later we arrived in Chiang Mai. We headed for the already reserved hotel, one recommended by a traveller we met in Luang Prabang, and settled in for a night of exhausted slumber.
The following day we explored the old city of Chiang Mai, rested and then went to a touristy night market in town. We returned at a reasonable hour and got ready for transferring hotels for the AJWS orientation.
The AJWS orientation began at 1:00 and I met the other ten people who are volunteering for the spring. What an interesting group. Most of the participants are 50 or older, some are retirees, and some taking a hiatus from work life. There were three persons who are 20-30 age range who are also going to volunteer. The assignment locations range from Cambodia to the Thai-Burma border. It all seems quite exciting to meet all these committed Jewish Americans who really get tikun olam. What a fantastic group to learn from and travel with. The training lasts until Thursday evening and will be all day for the next 4 days.
At dinner this evening I met a social work PhD professor who lives in Cambodia and we are talking about having me come to vist his university in Battambang, where there is a new social work degree program. I am looking forward to developing a relationship with this new program and see what types of linkages to Augsburg are available.
After two days on the river, we crossed the Mekong and entered Thailand. This was a much easier crossing than we had experienced crossing from Vietnam to Laos and there were not too many surprises. We arrived in a small city in Thailand across from Huay Xai, Laos and eventually found a bus travelling to Chiang Mai. We were informed the trip would be about five hours, and seven hours later we arrived in Chiang Mai. We headed for the already reserved hotel, one recommended by a traveller we met in Luang Prabang, and settled in for a night of exhausted slumber.
The following day we explored the old city of Chiang Mai, rested and then went to a touristy night market in town. We returned at a reasonable hour and got ready for transferring hotels for the AJWS orientation.
The AJWS orientation began at 1:00 and I met the other ten people who are volunteering for the spring. What an interesting group. Most of the participants are 50 or older, some are retirees, and some taking a hiatus from work life. There were three persons who are 20-30 age range who are also going to volunteer. The assignment locations range from Cambodia to the Thai-Burma border. It all seems quite exciting to meet all these committed Jewish Americans who really get tikun olam. What a fantastic group to learn from and travel with. The training lasts until Thursday evening and will be all day for the next 4 days.
At dinner this evening I met a social work PhD professor who lives in Cambodia and we are talking about having me come to vist his university in Battambang, where there is a new social work degree program. I am looking forward to developing a relationship with this new program and see what types of linkages to Augsburg are available.
Sunday, February 6, 2011
quote of the day
Overheard outside the Royal dining room while visiting the ex-monarch's palace:
"Oh look honey, they had Moser crystal, just like we do at the Palm Springs house. The pattern has not changed at all!"
Saturday, February 5, 2011
Vientaine to Luang Prabang
The capital city of Vientiane is so much quieter and more subdued than any capital city I have ever visited. Certainly it is a contrast to Hanoi. One can cross streets without fear of one’s life, and people are friendly and relaxed. We stayed at the Huan Lao Guesthouse, a lovely garden spot with clean, sparse rooms, and enough cats and dogs to calm my longings for the critters at home. Our friend from Normandy, Oscar, found it in his French tour book, and then procured our rooms in this location. At $10 a night, it was a great find. Rich had a cold for much of this trip, and as a lovely gift gave it to me too. I am either feeling slightly confused and out of it due to the cold, or maybe due to some culture shock working its way into my system.
In Vientiane, we went to various markets, visited several temples, and generally absorbed the climate of the city. The first temple we visited, Wat Si Saket, was located next to the presidential palace. It is a large wooden and stucco structure, with galleries of Buddha sculptures along the outside of the sanctuary and several large Buddha’s inside. Across the street from the presidential palace was Wat Pha Kaew, built in the 16th century and at one time housed the Emerald Buddha, now located in Thailand. This temple had an inner courtyard circled by covered alleys housing lovely cast-bronze Buddha sculptures. Between each large Buddha, were latticework walls which encased tiny, gold painted Buddha representations.
One can observe the French influence on Indochina when one looks at this city. The presidential palace is on a broad avenue and with a large arch at the other end, imitating the Champs Elysee in Paris.
After three full Days in Vientaine, we departed early Saturday morning for Luang Prabang in Northern Laos. The 300 km bus trip took 10 hours due to the treacherous, rugged, exquisite mountains of Laos. We arrived in Luang Prabang at about 7 pm and after a rest ventured into town and the night market for a bite to eat before bed. My first impression of the market was similar to being in Taos or Santa Fe. It was filled with international travellers, and was catering to a tourist trade, including signs in English and Chinese, fairy lights, and miles of stalls selling crafts and textiles from seemingly the same producers.
In Vientiane, we went to various markets, visited several temples, and generally absorbed the climate of the city. The first temple we visited, Wat Si Saket, was located next to the presidential palace. It is a large wooden and stucco structure, with galleries of Buddha sculptures along the outside of the sanctuary and several large Buddha’s inside. Across the street from the presidential palace was Wat Pha Kaew, built in the 16th century and at one time housed the Emerald Buddha, now located in Thailand. This temple had an inner courtyard circled by covered alleys housing lovely cast-bronze Buddha sculptures. Between each large Buddha, were latticework walls which encased tiny, gold painted Buddha representations.
One can observe the French influence on Indochina when one looks at this city. The presidential palace is on a broad avenue and with a large arch at the other end, imitating the Champs Elysee in Paris.
After three full Days in Vientaine, we departed early Saturday morning for Luang Prabang in Northern Laos. The 300 km bus trip took 10 hours due to the treacherous, rugged, exquisite mountains of Laos. We arrived in Luang Prabang at about 7 pm and after a rest ventured into town and the night market for a bite to eat before bed. My first impression of the market was similar to being in Taos or Santa Fe. It was filled with international travellers, and was catering to a tourist trade, including signs in English and Chinese, fairy lights, and miles of stalls selling crafts and textiles from seemingly the same producers.
It is an amazing little city on the Mekong. It is filled with temples was a spiritual center before the tourists “found” it. In some ways it reminds me of Safad in the Galilee with the coexistence between the sacred and the gawking profane. A fascinating juxtaposition which I hope to learn a bit more about over the next few days.
Pictures from Vientiane
Pictures from Vientiane
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
Hue to Laos
After two rainy days in Hue, complete with rain soaked walks through the imperial city, we decided to find warmer climes and make our way into Laos. We had an amazing trip crossing from Vietnam into Laos. The day really started Saturday afternoon when we asked the owner of Halo Guest House to set up a trip for us to Savannakeht (Savan), Laos. I suggested she book the 6 am bus I had read about in the guides, but she said she knew a nicer one. She booked us on a bus that she said left at 7:30 am. After the booking, she informed us the scheduled departure would now be at 6:30 and we would be picked up in the lobby.
The trip was less than direct. We picked up and delivered mail, and kept adding passengers (not knowing where to put them, they hung onto the back gate) and dropping them off along the way. The trip was truly an experience, which was made pleasant by the delightful company and shared astonishment and gripes. We arrived in Savan close to five hours later and found a wonderful hotel. We splurged, forgoing a grody $8 room for a seemingly palatial room with breakfast, AC and cable for $15 a night.
As good Western based travellers, we arose at 5:15 to make certain we were packed and ready to go downstairs by 6:15. We packed all of our various bits and descended into a dark lobby which was filled with motorbikes and bicycles (a common practice in Vietnam). The darkness obscured the one step between the two levels of the lobby. Rich unfortunately found it by tumbling over it while wearing a fully packed backpack. Relatively unscathed he did spend several minutes telling me this is the reason he hates the design of our deck. We then attempted to leave the hotel and found the front doors padlocked. It was a bit unnerving to realize that we had been locked in every night. (thoughts of the infamous coconut nightclub fire flashed in our heads) Keeping this long story reasonable, we exited and secured the last two bus seats before aisle seating began.
We found ourselves on a tour bus to the DMZ, and we, with a dozen or so others, were going to be dropped off at the Lao border where another bus would take us to Savan. So far so good, all the guidebooks said that it was a three-hour trip to the border crossing and we would have a nice tour and lecture on the way.
Well, the trip took a bit longer than I had expected, but it was a fabulously beautiful. We travelled a verdant river valley, with craggy peaks, and pastoral scenery. Sadly, this was not a picture-taking day, as it was rainy, and the windows were fogged, but we enjoyed the ride and the well-educated young Vietnamese woman who lectured about the war and the Ho Chi Minh trail.
At an abandoned US army base, we jettisoned the DMZ tourists and the rest of us continued on to the border. On the way we picked up a person who would “facilitate” our transfer into Laos, and due to my cultural confusions, I will call her Cruella. Cruella entered the bus full of piss and vinegar imploring us to change our Dong into Kip. Unfortunately, her exchange rate was nearly 25% below the published international trade rates. She indicated (in limited English) we would have no further chance to use our Dong if we did not change it now. (This turned out to be a fallacy, as the Lao visa could be purchased in Dong.)
Well, the trip took a bit longer than I had expected, but it was a fabulously beautiful. We travelled a verdant river valley, with craggy peaks, and pastoral scenery. Sadly, this was not a picture-taking day, as it was rainy, and the windows were fogged, but we enjoyed the ride and the well-educated young Vietnamese woman who lectured about the war and the Ho Chi Minh trail.
At an abandoned US army base, we jettisoned the DMZ tourists and the rest of us continued on to the border. On the way we picked up a person who would “facilitate” our transfer into Laos, and due to my cultural confusions, I will call her Cruella. Cruella entered the bus full of piss and vinegar imploring us to change our Dong into Kip. Unfortunately, her exchange rate was nearly 25% below the published international trade rates. She indicated (in limited English) we would have no further chance to use our Dong if we did not change it now. (This turned out to be a fallacy, as the Lao visa could be purchased in Dong.)
About five hours after we departed, we arrived at the border. As we exited the bus Cruella became bureaucratic, offering us papers to fill out, grabbing them away from us, etc., obviously frustrated with these people who could not manage a border crossing. She hurried us through the Vietnam exit process, and was anxiously propelling us through the Laos immigration and visa process. After twenty minutes of confusion, and spending $41 dollars each, Rich and I were through the process. I thought Cruella said we needed to walk 100 meters and we would find the bus. After we travelled this distance in full pack, she came up on a moto saying we had .5 km more to walk to the bus. Being gracious, we agreed and continued to walk into Laos, and getting more and more wary as there was no bus in sight.
About 1.5 km later, we entered a small village and surprise (!), no bus. We were informed we had spent too much time to cross the border, and missed our bus. (If we did miss the bus, it would not be too surprising as we did take a circuitous route with our tour group.) Cruella had an intriguing alternative, a conveyance known a songthaeaw, an open back 2 ton pickup truck with two benches facing each other and with vinyl curtains I case of rain and to mitigate the wind. All fourteen of us were ushered into the truck. This was our "bus" to Sananaketh, a trip of five hours. I was beginning to feel taken advantage of by the situation until I realized that the experience and stories were worth the $15 per person ticket.
The trip was less than direct. We picked up and delivered mail, and kept adding passengers (not knowing where to put them, they hung onto the back gate) and dropping them off along the way. The trip was truly an experience, which was made pleasant by the delightful company and shared astonishment and gripes. We arrived in Savan close to five hours later and found a wonderful hotel. We splurged, forgoing a grody $8 room for a seemingly palatial room with breakfast, AC and cable for $15 a night.
We spent two nights in Savan with the intermittent day one of walking the banks of the Mekong, eating wonderful street foods, visiting an amazing Temple built in the 16th century and speaking with one of the monks about his work as an English teacher. We later went to the community market, had lunch there, and enjoyed the sights of market life in southern Laos with its live poultry, fresh fruits, clothing, jewelry and other market essentials.
On Tuesday morning we got up early for the ten hour bus ride to Vientiane, the capital city of Laos. It was a local bus, and we were treated to multiple stops in small villages, with food hawkers at each stop, and were treated to the rustic, yet lush rural landscapes of Laos.
At our arrival in the capital city we joined a lovely man from Normandy, a fellow traveller, and we searched for hotels together, finally settling on a family room here in a clean, but soulless hotel, the only spot we could find at a reasonable price. It was $25, our most expensive room yet. We will look for less expensive quarters later today, Wednesday, groundhog day in the US. Here Phil will see his shadow, with a sunny 85 degrees planned.
Friday, January 28, 2011
Hue today - gone tomorr?...oh Sunday
Last night we took the overnight, "sleeper?" bus from Hanoi to Hue. We were informed that we would be picked up from our hotel by the bus, but when the two gentlemen on motorscooters arrived saying they would take us to the bus, we were unprepared. With both Rich and encumbered by a large hiking pack and a day pack, the moto drivers took the hiking packs and placed them in front of themselves and asked us to mout the rear. This was the first motorcycle ride in my life, and it was in the crazy streets of Hanoi (see earlier pictures)! I decided to relax and found I did enjoy the ride, but likely will not repeat this experience for health's sake.
We did arrive safely and entered a bus created for Asian people who most likely average 100 lbs and scape heights of 5'1. It was a tight fit for me and each time I moved the upright seating situation reclined into sleeping space. Both Rich and I drifted off from time to time as we were ambiened, but it was not a restful night.
Arriving in Hue it was pouring, and has not ceased since our arrival 12 hours ago. Having now dried 2 sets of clothing from our in town forays for nourishing soups to stave the wet kitten state, we are settling into bed soon.
I am writing tonight from the middle of a family party hosted by our hotel owners, and it is raucous. If the rain ceases, we will explore the citadel and the environs of the old empire capital. On Sunday morning we leave for Laos, a bus ride to Savannaket.
We did arrive safely and entered a bus created for Asian people who most likely average 100 lbs and scape heights of 5'1. It was a tight fit for me and each time I moved the upright seating situation reclined into sleeping space. Both Rich and I drifted off from time to time as we were ambiened, but it was not a restful night.
Arriving in Hue it was pouring, and has not ceased since our arrival 12 hours ago. Having now dried 2 sets of clothing from our in town forays for nourishing soups to stave the wet kitten state, we are settling into bed soon.
I am writing tonight from the middle of a family party hosted by our hotel owners, and it is raucous. If the rain ceases, we will explore the citadel and the environs of the old empire capital. On Sunday morning we leave for Laos, a bus ride to Savannaket.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Ha Long Bay Excursion
On Saturday evening, Rich and I decided we would spend the first part of the week on an excursion to Ha Long Bay. On Monday morning we left early and after a 3.5 hour van trip, arrived at the city of Ha Long. Once there, we boarded a boat which took us to our floating hotel. My word, it was opulent. Upon arrival we were served tea and then taken to our room, a lovely one with a large bath, full shower, king sized bed, and large windows overlooking the scenery and providing access to the floating hawkers of food, drinks, batteries, etc. One did have to remember to close the curtains when changing clothes, as the bay was quite busy.
We ate a lovely lunch, and entered a smaller travel boat to our first excursion. We were taken to the “surprise cave”. He hiked with our fellow travellers among stalactites and stalagmites, remnants of pools, and flowing limestone draperies. The surprise, well, I’ll let those of you who want to travel see for yourselves.
After hiking, we got back on the smaller boat and travelled to a spot to go kayaking for about 40 minutes throughout the small islets which are the salient feature of Ha Long Bay. Rich and I saw small caves, got up close and personal with the rock, and then returned, wet, cold, and happy.
We returned to our cruise hotel for hot showers, and then to dinner with our lovely group of 10 passengers. We went to bed for a restful evening, eschewing the Karaoke offered in the lounge, as did the other passengers, making it an early restful night, moored with a plethora of similar vessels nearby, and dotting the seascape with twinkling lights.
The next day, I awoke to my birthday, and a memorable one it was! We once again took off on an execution to go cycling on Cat Ba Island for a few miles through the fields and jungle like terrain, until, once again, we climbed back onto the smaller touring boat to find a lunch spot. Here we went to a beachfront property and had another sumptuous repast, and spent several minutes walking the beach and challenging a female dog sized ape, who growled at us, and was willing to sit still in exchange for sliced bread.
After lunch we sailed around Cat Ba Island and arrived at the town of Cat Ba where we were ushered into a grand hotel and had the afternoon off to sightsee, nap, etc. Later we reconvened for dinner, and then Rich and I chose not to go out drinking and went to the hotel for an evening of downloading pictures and rest. What a wonderful birthday it was!.
The next morning we awoke to a beautiful breakfast buffet, got back on the boat by 7:30 and were off to return to Ha Long. After 4 hours on the bus, we returned to our hotel for a brief respite, and on to making plans for moving south to Hue and then over to Laos.
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Hanoi Touristing
It is now Sunday morning and we have had two more eventful, chilly days in Hanoi. After intense warnings to bring light clothes and to prepare for the heat, we hearty Minnesotans are shivering in our cotton clothing. With record low temperatures of the 45 - 50 degrees and highs in the humid 50's, we were unprepared for the weather.
On Friday we visited the Temple of Literature, the oldest university in Viet Nam, starting in 1070 CE. As an academic, I had a sense of eerie pride in the veneration of scholars. This was an amazing complex, with eight increasingly ornate gates and courtyards, all with ponds, large outdoor bonsai in exquisite planters, and finally moving into a large temple building which once housed the students on the top floor. The complex was immense, intricately planted, and well renovated.
The academic process there was somewhat different from what we have in the western world. The emperor was the one who gave the final exams and those who passed created a treatise venerating the monarch. The homages were incised into stone and placed on the back of carved turtles, one of the four national symbols of Viet Nam (the other three being dragons, cranes, and something I can't recall).
Following our tour we found a little street lunch spot, where we had fried rice for lunch before spending the afternoon at the Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum. The museum is housed in an ornate French colonial mansion with exquisite grounds and houses an historical collection of Vietnamese art. We were transfixed by the work surrounding the revolution which provided an alternative narrative to the one we heard in the United States. As history, along with art history, is written by the victors, we saw moving portrayals of the liberation of the peoples of Vietnam from their colonizers, and the veneration of Uncle Ho, who understood and loved the peasants.
Following the exhibits, we walked back to our hotel where I needed to corral Rich into walking, rather than photo shooting the traffic. When we arrived back in the afternoon, we fell into bed and slept until the next morning, only being distracted by the raucous party our hosts we having in the main floor below our chambers.
The next morning we decided to go to the Ho Chi Minh Museum and complex. The museum itself is strikingly beautiful, with exhibits illuminating the life of Ho and the influences on his mission. The museum presented artifacts of Ho's life as well as moving exhibits of the Spanish Civil War, the Russian Revolution, the Native American genocide and the Holocaust. All were portrayed in a moving modern art style, and were exquisitely executed.
Following our tour of the museum, we scurried to find Ho Chi Minh's resting place as we had read that it was about to close. We were ushered into the mausoleum by white clad guards, who were very deliberate in waking us past the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh. The body was lying in a bed, was chalky white, and to me a bit gruesome to encounter, as I do not do dead bodies very well.
After viewing the body, we viewed the stilt house where the deceased revolutionary leader lived while president and during the war. It was a beautifully simple structure and was raised on stilts with a secluded view of a serene lake vista. Paradoxically, when leaving the house, we looked across the lake and saw an edifice serving drinks with a Pepsi awning over its outdoor tables. What would Ho think!?!
The museum closed at noon and so we took off to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology. After a harrowing taxi ride, where I think we may have been taken on a tour to increase the rate, we arrived. The museum traces the fifty four ethnic groups in Vietnam which are centered in five ethnolinguistic families. There were two parts to the museum, an inside area featuring artifacts of the differing groups and an outside area with recreations of the housing types for each ethnic area of Vietnam.
There was a major exhibit focused on destigmatizing HIV/AIDS. This exhibit was co-sponsored by the Vietnam department of health and the University of Washington, Seattle. HIV seems to be a significant challenge here, and the government seems to be taking the struggle on directly. There are laws promoting condom usage for all sexual activity (I don't know how they can do this). The stigma of HIV appears to be intense. There is some indication that there are education efforts in the schools to stem transmission. Other efforts are working to confront the prejudicial attitudes through the dissemination of accurate information about the transmission routes of the virus.
Barb's pics are here
Rich's pics day 2 are here
Rich's pics day 3 are here
On Friday we visited the Temple of Literature, the oldest university in Viet Nam, starting in 1070 CE. As an academic, I had a sense of eerie pride in the veneration of scholars. This was an amazing complex, with eight increasingly ornate gates and courtyards, all with ponds, large outdoor bonsai in exquisite planters, and finally moving into a large temple building which once housed the students on the top floor. The complex was immense, intricately planted, and well renovated.
The academic process there was somewhat different from what we have in the western world. The emperor was the one who gave the final exams and those who passed created a treatise venerating the monarch. The homages were incised into stone and placed on the back of carved turtles, one of the four national symbols of Viet Nam (the other three being dragons, cranes, and something I can't recall).
Following our tour we found a little street lunch spot, where we had fried rice for lunch before spending the afternoon at the Vietnam National Fine Arts Museum. The museum is housed in an ornate French colonial mansion with exquisite grounds and houses an historical collection of Vietnamese art. We were transfixed by the work surrounding the revolution which provided an alternative narrative to the one we heard in the United States. As history, along with art history, is written by the victors, we saw moving portrayals of the liberation of the peoples of Vietnam from their colonizers, and the veneration of Uncle Ho, who understood and loved the peasants.
Following the exhibits, we walked back to our hotel where I needed to corral Rich into walking, rather than photo shooting the traffic. When we arrived back in the afternoon, we fell into bed and slept until the next morning, only being distracted by the raucous party our hosts we having in the main floor below our chambers.
The next morning we decided to go to the Ho Chi Minh Museum and complex. The museum itself is strikingly beautiful, with exhibits illuminating the life of Ho and the influences on his mission. The museum presented artifacts of Ho's life as well as moving exhibits of the Spanish Civil War, the Russian Revolution, the Native American genocide and the Holocaust. All were portrayed in a moving modern art style, and were exquisitely executed.
Following our tour of the museum, we scurried to find Ho Chi Minh's resting place as we had read that it was about to close. We were ushered into the mausoleum by white clad guards, who were very deliberate in waking us past the embalmed body of Ho Chi Minh. The body was lying in a bed, was chalky white, and to me a bit gruesome to encounter, as I do not do dead bodies very well.
After viewing the body, we viewed the stilt house where the deceased revolutionary leader lived while president and during the war. It was a beautifully simple structure and was raised on stilts with a secluded view of a serene lake vista. Paradoxically, when leaving the house, we looked across the lake and saw an edifice serving drinks with a Pepsi awning over its outdoor tables. What would Ho think!?!
The museum closed at noon and so we took off to the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology. After a harrowing taxi ride, where I think we may have been taken on a tour to increase the rate, we arrived. The museum traces the fifty four ethnic groups in Vietnam which are centered in five ethnolinguistic families. There were two parts to the museum, an inside area featuring artifacts of the differing groups and an outside area with recreations of the housing types for each ethnic area of Vietnam.
There was a major exhibit focused on destigmatizing HIV/AIDS. This exhibit was co-sponsored by the Vietnam department of health and the University of Washington, Seattle. HIV seems to be a significant challenge here, and the government seems to be taking the struggle on directly. There are laws promoting condom usage for all sexual activity (I don't know how they can do this). The stigma of HIV appears to be intense. There is some indication that there are education efforts in the schools to stem transmission. Other efforts are working to confront the prejudicial attitudes through the dissemination of accurate information about the transmission routes of the virus.
Barb's pics are here
Rich's pics day 2 are here
Rich's pics day 3 are here
Thursday, January 20, 2011
And on to Hanoi
We left late afternoon on Monday, and with various and sundry confusions, cancelled flights, rebookings, flew from Minneapolis to Chicago, to Seoul, to Hanoi, arriving Thursday morning at midnight. It was an adventure!
We had a 13 hour layover at the Seoul airport which boasted art museums, and traditionally dressed parades of musicians and dancers sauntering through the shopping crowds. A jarring counterpoint to this was the recognizable eateries; McDonalds, Quiznos, Dunkin Donuts, etc. The airport is a lovely building, which is quite well designed for weary travelers, boasting no cost sleeping areas, free internet, polite people, and even a hotel where we had the option to stay for 10.00 an hour, not including taxes or fees. Being cheap skates, we found a sofa and rested most of the day.
We arrived in Hanoi this morning and climbed five flights of stairs with our packs and were nestled in a delightful room where we promptly went to sleep. After 6 hours of sleep, rose to breakfast of a huge baguette along with eggs and tea. We were then asked to move our belongings to our real room on the second floor and after doing so, took a major walk around town. While I am sure the distance was not great, managing the traffic was a challenge. Traffic, mostly motor scooters, was unbelievable, with seemingly few stoplights, hectic turners, and we learned there is never a break. We learned by observing the locals that one just looks for a decrease in intensity and cross, the scooters, bikes and SUV's skirt around you. It was quite harrowing! We walked along hom kien lake, met a couple of very friendly young folks who were practicing English, and explored.
We went out to lunch at a cook it yourself hot pot restaurant, where we were the only ones who did not know what to do with our setup. We ordered too much not recognizing when I pointed out what a group of five were eating I therefore ordered a meal for five. When we finished what we could eat, we gave the rest to the servers, who had shown us what to do and who we saw finishing up the left overs from other patrons. This must be a substantial portion of their salary.
Following lunch we explored a lovely 13th century temple which is on an island in the lake we had walked around earlier. Following the lovely temple, we strode through some of the older parts of town where we saw street venders, and very enterprising salespeople, who were willing to polish our sneakers, have us buy donuts, fruit, or crafts. Alongside were shops of various varieties selling silks, shoes, crafts, mechanical equipment, plants, flowers and such.
The excursion highlighted our jetlag, so we returned to the hotel, rested, went for a short stroll and came back to blogging, reading and soon to bed. new pics here
We had a 13 hour layover at the Seoul airport which boasted art museums, and traditionally dressed parades of musicians and dancers sauntering through the shopping crowds. A jarring counterpoint to this was the recognizable eateries; McDonalds, Quiznos, Dunkin Donuts, etc. The airport is a lovely building, which is quite well designed for weary travelers, boasting no cost sleeping areas, free internet, polite people, and even a hotel where we had the option to stay for 10.00 an hour, not including taxes or fees. Being cheap skates, we found a sofa and rested most of the day.
We arrived in Hanoi this morning and climbed five flights of stairs with our packs and were nestled in a delightful room where we promptly went to sleep. After 6 hours of sleep, rose to breakfast of a huge baguette along with eggs and tea. We were then asked to move our belongings to our real room on the second floor and after doing so, took a major walk around town. While I am sure the distance was not great, managing the traffic was a challenge. Traffic, mostly motor scooters, was unbelievable, with seemingly few stoplights, hectic turners, and we learned there is never a break. We learned by observing the locals that one just looks for a decrease in intensity and cross, the scooters, bikes and SUV's skirt around you. It was quite harrowing! We walked along hom kien lake, met a couple of very friendly young folks who were practicing English, and explored.
We went out to lunch at a cook it yourself hot pot restaurant, where we were the only ones who did not know what to do with our setup. We ordered too much not recognizing when I pointed out what a group of five were eating I therefore ordered a meal for five. When we finished what we could eat, we gave the rest to the servers, who had shown us what to do and who we saw finishing up the left overs from other patrons. This must be a substantial portion of their salary.
Following lunch we explored a lovely 13th century temple which is on an island in the lake we had walked around earlier. Following the lovely temple, we strode through some of the older parts of town where we saw street venders, and very enterprising salespeople, who were willing to polish our sneakers, have us buy donuts, fruit, or crafts. Alongside were shops of various varieties selling silks, shoes, crafts, mechanical equipment, plants, flowers and such.
The excursion highlighted our jetlag, so we returned to the hotel, rested, went for a short stroll and came back to blogging, reading and soon to bed. new pics here
Sunday, January 16, 2011
We leave tomorrow
We are leaving tomorrow and with 26 hours to go, both Rich and I are finishing up packing, rechecking lists, considering what to take and what to leave, and rearranging our packs. It feels a bit unreal to pack one backpack for six months of living in Asia.
This week illuminated some more specific information. On Thursday morning I had a conversation with Colin Mallet in Phnom Penh and his houseguest, Doreen who has been living at the Peaceful Children’s Home II in Battambang for the last two months. Speaking with them gave me perspective on some of the challenges awaiting me. The director of the Orphanage I outside of Phnom Penh died unexpectedly last week from a stroke and there will be a need for a new director there. There are also some plans for staffing changes in Battambang. It seems as if my volunteer assignment may be during a time of multiple transitions.
I also had the opportunity to become acquainted with some of the others volunteering in Asia with AJSW this spring. We seem to be from all over the United States, with quite a few from the mid-west, two from New Orleans, and a splattering from the coasts. We will actually meet together on February 13th in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
I am really excited, somewhat anxious about the extended air travel. The flight from Chicago to Inchon, Korea is 15 hours. Then there is a twelve-hour layover there before we fly to Hanoi, Vietnam for our first excursion.
This week illuminated some more specific information. On Thursday morning I had a conversation with Colin Mallet in Phnom Penh and his houseguest, Doreen who has been living at the Peaceful Children’s Home II in Battambang for the last two months. Speaking with them gave me perspective on some of the challenges awaiting me. The director of the Orphanage I outside of Phnom Penh died unexpectedly last week from a stroke and there will be a need for a new director there. There are also some plans for staffing changes in Battambang. It seems as if my volunteer assignment may be during a time of multiple transitions.
I also had the opportunity to become acquainted with some of the others volunteering in Asia with AJSW this spring. We seem to be from all over the United States, with quite a few from the mid-west, two from New Orleans, and a splattering from the coasts. We will actually meet together on February 13th in Chiang Mai, Thailand.
I am really excited, somewhat anxious about the extended air travel. The flight from Chicago to Inchon, Korea is 15 hours. Then there is a twelve-hour layover there before we fly to Hanoi, Vietnam for our first excursion.
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Eight days to go...
This last ten days have been a whirlwind. Last Friday morning, well before the winter solstice sun considered emerging, I travelled to New Orleans to say adieu to dad, his special friend, Margo, and my sibs and their spouses, Carolyn and David and Larry and Dashka. All in all a lovely weekend where I announced my plans, explained my choices, and through the narrative, was able to clarify some of my own reasons for choosing Cambodia. Cambodia was an intriguing choice because of the history of recent genocide. Coming from a community which experienced genocide I feel compelled to confront the trauma with eyes a removed from my own experiences. I hope to facilitate some modicum of healing of the distrust and multi generational traumas which can be passed on and on.
We are in the midst of lists, general excitement and its reflective angst, and attempting to prepare for leaving home and then again for arriving in a situation which is new and unknown. We are planning what to bring and what to leave, asking how many pounds of dog food and cat food to purchase for six months, scheduling plans with our many friends who want to say their goodbyes. Ordering prescriptions for six months, assessing the best H2O treatments, saying goodbyes, its an amazing whirlwind of emotion.
All I know is we will have ready what we have ready, that it will be exhilarating and stressful, and that it will be an unbelievable, growing, learning experience.
More as it becomes know.
We are in the midst of lists, general excitement and its reflective angst, and attempting to prepare for leaving home and then again for arriving in a situation which is new and unknown. We are planning what to bring and what to leave, asking how many pounds of dog food and cat food to purchase for six months, scheduling plans with our many friends who want to say their goodbyes. Ordering prescriptions for six months, assessing the best H2O treatments, saying goodbyes, its an amazing whirlwind of emotion.
All I know is we will have ready what we have ready, that it will be exhilarating and stressful, and that it will be an unbelievable, growing, learning experience.
More as it becomes know.
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