Early Saturday morning we met “John”, his own moniker, and began a day of activities. First we met the Bamboo train. The “train” is comprised of a metal 3’x6’ metal frame covered in bamboo slats and set atop two axels attached to wheels and spanning the railroad track. Affixed to the platform is a small two-stroke motor attached to the rear axle with a rubber belt. To complete the set up a stick is affixed used as an accelerator and a crude brake. Rich and I, along with our driver took a 7 km jaunt down the tracks. Though this conveyance is now primarily for tourists, it was a once used for transporting of goods. This was necessary due to the war when the Khmer Rouge destroyed the train system as it was considered a modern abhorrence to be rid of.
Following an hour on the train, including fifteen minutes of waiting for our return, we got back on the tuk tuk and headed across the Sampor river to view traditional houses, and then to visit a vineyard, the only one growing wine grapes in Cambodia. We walked around the estate, and tasted some of the grapes. As it was a very hot day, I did not indulge in tasting because we were off to hiking and the idea of exerting myself in the heat while tanked up on wine was a bit off-putting.
Upon leaving the vineyard we travelled a few miles further to a Wat (Buddhist temple) where fruit bats were roosting in the trees. These mammals are huge and at first I thought they were flying squirrels. A local man, who the driver described a crazy but may have been developmentally delayed, beat the trees to roust the bats, and later indicated he wanted funds for his services disturbing the resting bats. We watched the bats for a bit and then left for another wonder of the province.
About five minutes later we arrived at Phnom Banan, an Ankorian wonder built on top of a high hill (BTW – Phnom means hill). One could only imagine the majesty of the structure before the Khmer Rouge, who wanted to destroy any sign of Buddhism, bombed it. The remains themselves were spectacular. In order to visit them, we needed to walk up a very steep staircase of close to 800 very tall steps. I was unwillingly aided in my ascent by a small, very determined woman, who though I protested, kept waving fans to cool me and massaged my legs when I stopped. I found it quite humiliating at first, but later just accepted and let her continue her ministrations. She chose to show us around the ruins, and took several nice photos of us. She asked for a dollar for her work and we gave her two.
We continued on furled dirt roads, passing scattered inhabitations until we finally reached our lunch spot and embarking spot to visit Phnom Sampu. This location is one where the brutality of the Khmer Rouge becomes more visceral. The Khmer Rouge used the Wat on Sampu as a jail where they incarcerated the Cambodian citizens and later killed them by throwing them over a cliff into a cave. We later walked down to the cave where there were collections of human bones and skulls in glass cabinets and a monk who was saying prayers. I witnessed the results of this brutality and said kaddish for those who died.
Somberly we left the caves and slowly returned to Battambang for the evening. The tour was quite compelling and while I was saddened by the horrid history, I felt hearted by the resilience of the people of this country. For more pictures, click here.
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